Wednesday, 23 April 2008
A maxi-adventure: Part VII: The Devonshire
After our fine French feast the night before, we took it easy in the morning before heading the The Devonshire for Sunday lunch.
This is one of three gastro-pubs that form part of Gordon Ramsay's sprawling empire. I don't have much of a problem with Ramsay as I have had two rather good meals at RHR and Claridge's . What irks me is that I think he is rather over exposed these days, and seem more intent on developing his empire than being in the kitchen. He has defended himself by saying that his ultimate aim is to raise the standard of food being served in all restaurants, not just 3 star establishments and, I suppose, not even I can argue with that.
I liked the Devonshire. I thought it was well designed with a cross between chic and country. Major plus points are the rather natty striped armchairs (not that dis-similar to the ones in 10 Downing St) by the open fires. I could quite happily while-away a couple of hours here supping a pint whilst reading the Week.
The dining tables are dark wood and laid out in a pared down manner, with no table-cloths and no side plates - your bread is eaten off your napkin. How quaint.
The service was pretty attentive and efficient even though one of our servers thought the pork he was serving was lamb! I think that says more about him than the food.
The food. Yep I would eat here again.
We had amongst us
Potted shrimp, creamy with a hint of spice
Mackerel on toast with red onion marmalade. Now I love Mackerel, but I could make this at home
Lamb's kidneys on toast. Well you know what I think about this but it disappeared pretty quickly off of HI plate
Kirsty's Goats cheese tartlet
3 of us had the roast Pork special which seemed to hit the spot
HI had the beef cheeks which were tender and tasty
But I have to say my Rabbit with whole grain mustard special was my favourite out the lot. It was delish. I would eat this again. In fact I would eat it now if I could.
and of course, chips
These were ok, could have done with being a bit fluffier in the middle, but nice and crispy outside. I think I must have been expecting Blumenthal triple-cooked or something..
The servings were generous and for a 'pub lunch' it was pretty darn good. Hat's off to Mr Ramsay.