I have had lunch here before, but never dinner and was keen to try it. The chef here seems to take his food seriously and did a stage at Noma last year.
The positives are good service if more formal than the gannet and definitely than Ox and finch.
The lighting also could do with being turned up. I know, I sound like the old person I am but I find it essential to be able to see what you are eating. After all presentation leads to anticipation leads to enjoyment.
That aside, the food does show good technique and the combination of ingredients show a palate with reasonable taste.
It was a surprise to get amuse bouch, all of which were very good especially a gouger that was filled with something green but very tasty.
There was also a complimentary pre-starter of a mushroom cappuccino, which was savoury and tasty.
I have only two criticisms: one of which eas that I thought the food over salted, and I am the first to admit I usually love salt. I don't know if it was because the jus that accompanied my beef cheeks was reduced so much it had become a very sticky, intensely savoury and lovely sauce, but in that process the salt came more to the fore?
The other note was that my celeriac was slightly on the hard side but still a good foil for the meat.
The treacle tart was much better than The Gannet's but I do not understand why it was served with an intensely Lemon purée.
It was nice enough it could have been served just with clotted cream.
The lemon purée appealed to my palate as I like sour things but it was not natural in its consistency and almost ascorbic acid in its sourness. A nods to Heston but not one that was necessary.
Sorry about the poor quality photos, the lighting was low and for some reason some of my pictures are missing.
Amuse
Lovely freshly baked bread
Pulled pork croquette
Sea bream ceviche very good
Very rich, unctuous beef cheek
Pheasant
Treacle tart with lemon purée
Plum pudding not as good as Mark Greenaways
Location:Glasgow
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